Subversive Femme

Finished Outfit : Advance 7869, Men’s Shirts, circa 40s/50s

It Jakk’s birthday today, and she specifically asked for two rayon shirts as her present. Her Hawaiian/40’s shirt collection is out of control, but she was missing some basic colours.

How can a sewer say no? Of course I procrastinated, and I just finished the last shirt today (that’s ontime, right?)

The pattern she chose was Advance 7869, a late 40s/early 50s men’s shirt with long and short sleeve options.

The first version is View 1 – long sleeved, but without the contrast front.
(please welcome my partner Jakk, modelling clothing on my blog for the first time)
I’ve never made proper sleeve plackets before, so it definitely was a learning experience. I referred back to some of her vintage shirts and Sunsurf reproductions just to check what I was doing looked ‘right’ as the instructions were a little bit mystifying.
The second version is the much simpler short sleeve shirt, without the chest pockets.
Jakk says she prefers the pockets, so I’ll make sure I remember that for next time.
Fabric: white and black rayon shirting, Spotlight.
Pattern: Advance 7869, circa late 40s (probably 1949).
– pinched out half an inch from the shoulder width.
– didn’t do flat felled seams, but did do two lines of top-stitching so you can’t tell.
I wouldn’t call this pattern easy at all – Advance has “…the easy printed pattern!’ on the front cover – lies!
The white version was pretty easy, but once you add that long sleeve with placket into the mix, I would call this a hard-intermediate.
I’m not sure why the pockets and flaps had to be cut on the bias – it made them very hard to get straight. I will cut them straight next time.
The fabric is brilliant! I’m surprised to get such an inexpensive fabric that feels this good, so I’ve bought extra for myself.
Jakk’s review – she loves the shirts (especially the black) and thinks the fit is really good. The rayon drapes well and is just the right thickness.
She’s asked me really nicely if I will make her another one in dark green as well.
Calamity loves photo-bombing…
And now, I won’t feel sewers-guilt when I start another project.
Have you ever sewn vintage for your partner/family? Did they like it?


You Might Also Like...

No Comments

  • Reply
    September 28, 2013 at 7:39 am

    you mastered the pattern perfect and the model looks really great in it.
    I knit for my daughter hats and scarves and for my son socks.. both love it.
    ciao ciao Christa

  • Reply
    Marilla Walker
    September 28, 2013 at 9:47 am

    Yes, I made a shirt for my husband out of a check linen and he thought it was made of a table cloth! Undeterred I have since made him a fleece dressing gown and knitted some fairisle gloves, which he loves and wears all the time, so all is forgiven.

  • Reply
    September 28, 2013 at 6:01 pm

    You did a great job and Jakk looks happy with her new shirts.

    I've never sewn anything with vintage patterns because I have yet to learn to properly grade pattern. I o have several patterns set aside for when I get a sloper pattern going.

  • Reply
    Claire Gittins
    September 28, 2013 at 6:54 pm

    Jakk looks great in her Birthday presents -well done! I've just finished knitting a cardi/jacket with a zip up the front for my partner. I was very happy to hear him exclaim 'Oh yes!' When he tried it on. I bought the 1950's pattern from you. It's one out of a Stichcraft magazine.

  • Reply
    September 28, 2013 at 7:39 pm

    Jakk's shirts look great – well done. I am slowly knitting a sweater for my husband – a scarf and gloves are the two finished projects. I think its really special to make something for someone you love 🙂

  • Reply
    September 28, 2013 at 8:44 pm

    Happy Birthday to Jakk! The shirts look great. Menswear can be tricky but I've found I really like the satisfaction of all of the flat-felled seams, so much I've started adding them to my stuff, too. Thanks for posting, this makes me feel so much better about the shirt I've planned for my husband's birthday next week and haven't started yet! lol

  • Reply
    September 28, 2013 at 11:25 pm

    Oh dear, I'm glad he appreciated everything else!

  • Reply
    September 28, 2013 at 11:26 pm

    Oh congrats – was that the Roger Moore cardigan?

  • Reply
    September 30, 2013 at 7:54 am

    love the shirts. this is what my man is looking for.

  • Reply
    Claire Gittins
    September 30, 2013 at 8:28 am

    Hi Bex, I hope your Roger Moore comment was for me? The cardi I knitted is in the Stichcraft 1952 magazine you have for sale on Etsy. It's the man's one pictured in burgandy. I've made it in black merino and it does look lovely! I want to knit the yellow jumper on the front cover for me but in red. I love the fancy yoke. In time eh!…

  • Reply
    September 30, 2013 at 11:32 am

    is it possible that the pocket flaps are on bias because on the pattern it is checkered? they seemed to have wanted a contrast there…
    since your's is all black, it should not have mattered. I think.
    Looks good though!

  • Reply
    October 1, 2013 at 8:06 am

    It's great to see this one made up, the envelope isn't all that inspiring.I've found Advance patterns to be really bad with their sizing, looks like it's the same for their men's patterns too.

    Funnily enough, I have this pattern in my collection and have just picked up a stash of rayon from Spotlight. I may just have to whip one up for hubby for summer.

  • Reply
    October 5, 2013 at 4:05 pm

    I like both the shirts – the fit is marvelous!

    I really like the way the rayon looks – soft and move-able.

    I think you were very brave to do the long sleeve version with the cuffs and plackets – that is a really tough thing to do neatly- you've managed that perfectly.

  • Reply
    Eddie Bee
    June 17, 2014 at 1:55 am

    How did you date the pattern to 1949? I own it too and am trying to figure out when it's from. Thank you!

  • Reply
    June 17, 2014 at 3:58 am

    Hi Eddie!

    I guessed it was around 1949-50, based on the similarity to McCall 7906 (1949), McCall 6166 (1945) and McCall 8335 (1950). To me, the styling is more 40s, the but the fabric is more 50s…

    Hope that helps!

Leave a Reply