Subversive Femme

Tutorial 2: A new pocket variation for the Smooth Sailing blouse

Do you love pockets? Even just decorative ones that don’t hold anything?
Well, I have the pocket pattern just for you!

Here’s what it looks like in the flesh…I spotted this pocket design on a vintage pattern, and knew that it would work really well on the Smooth Sailing blouse (or any blouse pattern, honestly).

smooth sailing wearing history mods sleeves pockets silk sewing pattern 1940s 40s plus size




















The pocket is purely decorative, and really simple to make – I’ve made the pattern piece available to download at the end of the Tutorial. I drafted it to fit the SS blouse, but you could use it on any pattern you like by just adding some placement lines.

Step 1: On your Smooth Sailing pattern, square out the bottom corners of the pocket placement lines, and transfer the placement to your fabric. (It’s easier to attach the pockets before sewing darts, seams etc).















Step 2: Cut 4 of the pocket pieces on the fold.  With right sides together, stitch down the curved edge only (yes, I did stitch the wrong seam and had to unpick them, ouch). Seam allowance is 1.5mm or 5/8″. Clip the curve, and turn right-side out.














Step 3: Press! You can also add any trim if desired at this point.














Step 4: Lay two of the pocket pieces together matching the bottom edges and corners. Pin in the centre to hold them together.
Turn up the seam allowance on the bottom edges, pin and press. Trim the corners diagonally.













Note: I like to have my pockets opposite each other (one opening left, the other right) and this is where you would decide how you want them.

Step 5: Pin the pocket piece to the blouse, matching the bottom corners to the placement lines. Stitch carefully around the outside approx 1mm in from the edge (i.e. very close).















Step 6: Finish sewing up the rest of your blouse!


















As you can see, it’s a piece of cake!
To get your own pattern piece, right click on the below image and select ‘Open in a new Tab or Window’. You’ll need to print at a size that matches the measurements in the test square for accuracy.

I hope you enjoyed this Tutorial, and I still have some more to come!

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  • Reply
    August 6, 2014 at 2:27 am

    What a lovely way to do a pocket. It really ads a touch of couture to a blouse. Love this look.

  • Reply
    Jessica Cangiano
    August 6, 2014 at 4:36 am

    That is such a stellar outfit and blouse! I adore the mix of dark midnight blue and earthy, elegant browns. Smitten and inspired!!!

    ♥ Jessica

  • Reply
    Claire Gittins
    August 6, 2014 at 6:34 am

    Thank you again pocket queen! Another inspiring project to add to my 'to do' list. I'm interested to see your sleeve tutorial….

  • Reply
    August 6, 2014 at 6:26 pm

    I love it! Now… how to make the tiny pocket squares to match. 😀

  • Reply
    Lisa Weezi Gaverluk
    August 10, 2014 at 7:26 pm

    Fabulous pocket! thanx so much for showing us 🙂

  • Reply
    August 13, 2014 at 3:21 pm

    lovely pockets – but i have to say, the whole outfit behind those pockets it's just stellar!

  • Reply
    Miss Beta
    September 7, 2014 at 8:27 am

    Oh Bex, I knew I've seen this pocket somewhere on the blogosfere. I think it was on your blog! :0)

    I have this blouse pattern, I love those cute details, the collar and the pocket. I need to find the time to try it. My sewing experience is so limited yet.

    Thank you for sharing! 🙂

    Beta xx

  • Reply
    May 2, 2020 at 2:38 am

    Ooooh, just printed this out and am excited to add it to a vintage blouse pattern! Thank you for your lovely tutorials.

    • Reply
      May 2, 2020 at 8:58 am

      You’re so welcome, glad you like it xx

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