Subversive Femme
pake muu pakemuu hawaiian rayon vintage sewing pattern

Finished: A Pake Muu all of my own

Something I’ve always wanted, and have never sewn up is a Pake Muu.

I mean, it’s only been in my sewing queue for three years! Pake Muus were popularised by Alfred Shaheen during the 40s and 50s, when he blended chinese and polynesian styles.

I finally bit the bullet this week and modded a Simplicity pattern to make my very own! (sorry for the creases, I had been out and about!)

The pattern was Simplicity 8244, a 1950s repro that had some of the details I wanted – namely a slim fit, and mandarin collar.

To begin with, I removed a lot of the sleeve to make it a standard set in sleeve. Then I placed the side of the front piece that didn’t have buttons on a fold and voila – Pake Muu front! I only made some slight pattern tweaks for fit after that.

The sleeve patterns were mocked up from something else, and lined with contrast rayon just like a traditional Pake Muu. I even lined the leg split with contrast fabric, and finished off with frogs.

The fabric is the most stunning pink rayon covered in white and teal philodendrons, I found it in a hawaiian fabric shop earlier this year. I think it could be a Sunsurf or Tori Birch end roll.

pake muu pakemuu hawaiian rayon vintage sewing pattern

So how was it? One of the easiest things I’ve ever made, and took 3 metres of 150cm wide fabric.  I cannot wait to make more!


  • Changed shoulders to set in sleeve
  • Moved zip to side
  • Lowered bust darts
  • Removed one front dart totally and moved excess to side seam and other dart
  • Made a slash neck and facing

pake muu pakemuu hawaiian rayon vintage sewing pattern


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  • Reply
    October 22, 2017 at 10:13 pm

    This looks great on you!

    • Reply
      October 25, 2017 at 8:49 am

      Thank you!

  • Reply
    October 26, 2017 at 8:26 am

    I brought that same fabric home from my Hawaiian vacation! Mine is still in my stash till I figure out what it wants to be. Love what you made!

    • Reply
      October 27, 2017 at 2:01 pm

      Oh wow! I bought what was left on the roll – about 15 metres~! What a coincidence

  • Reply
    October 27, 2017 at 5:55 pm

    Lovely outfit and the fabric is wonderful. Always like how you style things

  • Reply
    October 28, 2017 at 5:02 am

    Zowie! That’s FABULOUS and you look terrific in it. I have that vintage pattern you showed, and want to make it up in some dark blue with red flowers fabric I found at an estate sale. Do you mind me asking where you got your white rayon?

    • Reply
      November 1, 2017 at 8:59 am

      Dark blue and red sounds delish. I got my rayon from Spotlight – they have it in a few colours (including red) it’s got a really nice hand.

  • Reply
    November 1, 2017 at 6:02 am

    Looks fantastic! Great sleeves! 🙂

  • Reply
    November 5, 2017 at 3:22 am

    SQUEAL!!!!!! I am in love with your make! Your idea of modifying the original pattern is so amazing. I am excited because I have that same pattern and I have been wanting to make my own page muu too. Can’t wait to try out some of your ideas. x

  • Reply
    November 17, 2017 at 9:04 am

    Very pretty and very flattering.

  • Reply
    Finished: Shaheen-inspired tunic and pants – Subversive Femme
    January 9, 2018 at 12:41 pm

    […] again I used Simplicity 8244 (same as my Pake Muu) and modded the heck out of it. The pants were my old faithful Gertie pattern Butterick […]

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