Subversive Femme

FO: Everyone loves a Bad Girl! (Butterick 5895)

I feel really late to the party sewing up Butterick 5895 – better late than never though!


I normally hate sewing pants.
I mean, technically they are easy to put together but I have a heck of a time getting them to fit properly. And fitted pants? On my pear shaped booty? Hmm, they could look like a train wreck.























The first fitting of these were cut with a waist between size 16 and 18, with the hips graded out to what would have been a size 22 (based on the finished measurements and zero ease at the hips).

The front and back both dipped down, and the back of my calves and knees had some shocking ‘smiles’ going on due to the tightness.

butterick 5895 b5895 gertie pants trousers 1950s cigarette pants plus size vintage repro xl























After making some mods (explained below) this second pair fit like a dream. In fact – these black pair were just meant to be a muslin too, but they’re perfect!


  • No pockets, I wanted a smooth line for these
  • Taken in half an inch again at the waist
  • Curvy adjustment – that is, cut a line from the centre back seam across to the hip leaving a tiny bit attached. Hinged the top of the pants upwards (2 inches for my booty) to create extra room in the back. Did the same by 1 inch for the front for my tummy.
  • Slightly lower crotch for comfort
  • Added a bit of extra room on the inside seam of the back of the pants leg (big calves)
  • Hemmed the pants slightly lower in the back to allow for my big calves.
butterick 5895 b5895 gertie pants trousers 1950s cigarette pants plus size vintage repro xl
Fabric: stretch chino drill.
I’d recommend something slightly heavier than the stretch cotton sateen they sell at Spotlight and Lincraft – it shows every lump and bump. I don’t remember where I got the stretch chino from, but it’s perfect!
Verdict: when I die, bury me in these pants. They fit perfectly and are so very comfortable, and scream 1950’s bad girl. I can’t wait to make an ankle length pair, and some denim ones.
butterick 5895 b5895 gertie pants trousers 1950s cigarette pants plus size vintage repro xl
I’m very glad to be proven wrong with these pants – curvy gals, give them a go – you won’t be sorry!
Pants – Butterick B5895
Lurex top – Review (thrifted!)
Gold flats – Asos
Bakelite – Etsy
Glitter confetti necklace – Rock and Roll Markets
Hair clip – Mimco
Lipstick – Illámasqua ‘Rockabilly

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No Comments

  • Reply
    March 23, 2015 at 10:26 am

    Gorgeous!!!! Absolutely perfectly divine! Saving this post to remember the curvy adjustment. Thankyou so much for the review but doh I've already bought cotton sateen from spotlight to make them!

  • Reply
    March 23, 2015 at 11:41 am

    Oooh La La! Those are awesome! I'm glad you figured out the fitting issues and you look great.

  • Reply
    March 23, 2015 at 1:21 pm

    I'm having trouble picturing your “curvy adjustment”, as I'm pear-shaped much like you, and in the same size range. I've been very hesitant about sewing up this pattern in spite of having both pattern and fabric. Could you, if you have time, elaborate on what you did for the “curvy adjustment”?

  • Reply
    March 23, 2015 at 2:37 pm

    These turned out great!

  • Reply
    March 23, 2015 at 3:52 pm

    Gorgeous! Fabulous on you. There's a reason that even though I struggled in the fall through endlessssss muslins of these blasted pants, that once I got a fit I was pretty happy with, I've made them 3 times and plan many more pairs. Love them! And in a stretch fabric they're actually comfy under any circumstances. Who can complain about cigarette pants that'll do that?!

  • Reply
    Cherry Darling
    March 23, 2015 at 5:38 pm

    Absolutely, drop dead, sexy! I tried MANY years ago to make a pair of pants and have all but sworn them off. I don't know that I'll be running to the store to buy the pattern, but I am starting to think that it may be possible in the future.

    She Knits in Pearls

  • Reply
    March 23, 2015 at 7:10 pm

    Of course Jen! I'll do another blog post and show you what the muslin looked like and how to alter it for curvy measurements (ie belly and booty hehe) x

  • Reply
    Claire Gittins
    March 24, 2015 at 7:29 am

    These look fabulous Bex! I love mine that I made. There was tons of ease in the paatern though.

  • Reply
    Jessica Cangiano
    March 24, 2015 at 7:57 am

    Seriously fabulous!!!

    ♥ Jessica

  • Reply
    March 25, 2015 at 5:38 pm

    There's nothing like finding the perfect pair of pants. Enjoy!

  • Reply
    March 26, 2015 at 5:21 am

    Wow! Just gorgeous. I'm very happy to see this, as I just bought this pattern 🙂

  • Reply
    March 27, 2015 at 3:17 pm

    I think you've done a really great job on these pants! You are skillful and these pants are beautiful on you! Kathy G.

  • Reply
    April 29, 2015 at 3:38 pm

    These are really cute! Well done!

  • Reply
    June 3, 2015 at 12:43 pm

    Wow! I just discovered your blog and it's so amazing! Vintage, dressmaking and knitting… these are my favourite things. Looking forward to reading more of your posts xoxo

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