Subversive Femme

Quick Tutorial: How to remove the front darts in trouser patterns (to make jeans)

It’s very simple to remove a dart from an existing trouser or pants pattern when you’re making jeans.

 For example – the EvaDress 1940s Swing Trousers 3322:

Darted at the waist:

The same pattern, without waist darts:

 1. To remove the darts, trace around your pattern piece (we never cut the original, right?)
2. Redraw the dart lines down to the side edge of the pattern piece, somewhere near the knee area. Keep the same start points on the waist edge.

3. Fold the new dart closed.

4. Retrace your new pattern piece, and re-draw the waist so it’s even (you can see the faint blue line of where the previous folded piece was).


And that’s it! Front darts gone and your new pants pattern is ready to be made into jeans.

I hope this tutorial helps if anyone was wondering how to do it 🙂

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  • Reply
    Claire Gittins
    July 12, 2015 at 9:34 pm

    I never would have thought to do it like this. It works though – your jeans are fab!

  • Reply
    July 13, 2015 at 4:10 am

    Forgive me as a novice but why cant u just close the dart and sew as is, instead of drawing a new dart to the side seam (that looks bigger than original one) THEN close? Sewing can be so over complicated sometimes, i dont get it ????

  • Reply
    July 16, 2015 at 10:52 pm

    Hi Pumpener! If you fold the dart closed without removing it somewhere else, technically your pattern piece isn't 100% flat and the accuracy is out a little bit.


  • Reply
    Helen Snell
    July 21, 2015 at 2:37 pm

    Great tip, thanks for sharing!

  • Reply
    Janette Gustafson
    October 4, 2018 at 5:08 pm

    Thank you! You clever lady ….. I am off to adjust my pattern!

  • Reply
    November 19, 2018 at 10:47 am

    I want to remove the dart in my front trouser pattern piece (but keep the back ones ) .
    I want to do this but keep the front pattern the same size , do i add it back to the side seam ??

    • Reply
      November 19, 2018 at 9:47 pm

      Hi Anna!
      The instructions on this post will show you how – you need to add the dart width back diagonally to the side seam – if you follow the photos it should work x

  • Reply
    Megan Fleming
    July 11, 2020 at 3:58 am

    If trouser includes waistband, do I just remove the width of the removed dart from it?

    • Reply
      July 11, 2020 at 7:33 am

      Yes you would 👍

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