Subversive Femme

Finished: Shaheen-inspired tunic and pants

Knowing we were going to Hawaii for Christmas really inspired me to make some outfits I had put off for ages – including an Alfred Shaheen-inspired number.

A friend of mine has an original one, and I was able to copy some of the details for mine including ankle slits on the trousers and the width of the front contrast.

Once again I used Simplicity 8244 (same as my Pake Muu) and modded the heck out of it. The pants were my old faithful Gertie pattern Butterick 5895.


  • Lowered bust darts
  • Removed one front dart totally and moved excess to side seam and other dart
  • Made a contrast panel for front
  • Made cuffs for the sleeve
  • Little ankle slits on the trousers

I struggled a bit with the fit around the neckline on this one for some reason (it’s not an issue with my Pake Muus) and I think I would make another muslin before trying this again.

The fabric is random cotton tiki-print I found at Lincraft years ago, with teal stretch sateen from Spotlight. I get all my colourful frogs and closures from a shop called Aiinee on Etsy – great colours, fast shipping.

On the stairs of the Royal Hawaiian

Would I make this again?

Definitely, however I think I need to fiddle more with the neckline before I do it again. I already have the fabric in mind for two more.

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1 Comment

  • Reply
    January 10, 2018 at 7:50 am

    What a wonderful make! Everything from the fit to the color is just so perfect for you. Congratulations and I hope you had a lovely time in Hawaii.

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