Subversive Femme
pake muu sewing pattern 1950s vinage hawaiian

Finished: The Pake Muu sewing pattern

It’s been a dream to have the Pake Muu pattern (Polynesian Pattern 130) available in larger sizes – and after three years I finally found a grader who could work with me to bring my dream to life!

pake muu sewing pattern polynesian pattern 120 vintage hawaiian rayon

Both my grader and I were suprised at how wonky the original pattern was – darts on an angle, notches not matching, etc – a lot of time was spent just cleaning up the pattern.

I’m pleased to be able to offer it in sizes 32-44 inch busts, in two printing formats – A4/Letter for home printers, and large format A0 for plot printing.

pakemuu polynesian patten 130 sewing pattern vintage

You can find the pattern for purchase over here, but I’d like to chat about the modifications I made for perfect fit.

It’s very rare for a pattern to fit perfectly straight out of the envelope (unless it’s a fairly loose design) – people’s bodies vary too much and mine is no exception.

Based on the size chart and finished measurements, I used a size 42 bust, and 44 hip (that gave me 6 inches of ease across my hips and 2 across my bust).

pake muu sewing pattern polynesian pattern 130 vintage hawaiian rayon dress

I ended up doing a FBA (full bust adjustment) of two inches in total, as this would have been sized for a B cup and I’m closer to a D. The good thing about a FBA is it also drops the bust dart point. I also lowered the points of the front verticle darts slightly too.

The second adjustment I made was for a sway back. This adjustment is needed if you are short waisted or have a large difference between your hip and waist – you’ll see fabric pooling at the back of your waist.

I used the method in the Palmer and Pletsch books, but there’s a great online tutorial here which is basically the same – it’s a very easy adjustment to make!

pake muu back

For fabric, I used this lovely orange rayon crepe that I found back in May at Hawaii Fabric Mart, and some lime green poly-rayon blend for the sleeve lining.

I hope this post helps people understand some of the mods I made for perfect fit – and I hope you enjoy the new pattern release! A big thanks to Gwenda my grader too!

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